This restaurant somehow merges the concepts of French fine dining, American steakhouse, New Orleans bordello and punk rock club. It’s an experience that transports diners and never loses sight of what’s on the plate. The “cold hot pink soup” is an immaculate beet vichyssoise with blue crab, corn and sorrel, while the crab cakes are the meatiest in town. The jokey names and descriptions of dishes either poke fun at the self-importance of many restaurants or are merely wacky, like the “Darth Grouper Held At Bay By A Rebellious Coalition.” However, that’s part of the mischievous fun here.