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At 821, meat lovers can order a one-pound burger served between two grilled cheese sandwiches, but there’s also a vegan chicken salad sandwich on the menu. If it’s bar or comfort food, 821 probably has it in meat and veggie forms. The vegan chili fries ($4) are enormous, a perfect drinking companion to soak up excess alcohol from 821’s well-chosen taps. Fried artichoke hearts ($8) aren’t elegant, but they’re strangely habit-forming with a classic crunchy exterior and creamy interior, served with a spicy sweet chili sauce.
And as long as we’re sticking with fried and unhealthy, the buffalo tofu ($7) has been a favorite of mine since before it was on the regular menu. Beer-battered tofu is covered in buffalo sauce and served on a roll with lettuce, tomato and vegan mayonaise. The house-made veggie burger ($7.25) feels healthier, with black beans, sweet potatoes and quinoa, a South American grainlike seed, making up the patty, with an avocado for a topping. Though the patty could be firmer, the subtle flavors strike a nice balance of sweet and savory with a hint of garlic. 821 offers an extensive vegan menu with breakfast choices, appetizers, sandwiches, salads and pasta.
821 Cafe
825 W. Cary St.
649-1042
821caferva.com
Monday-Wednesday: 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
Thursday-Friday: 8 a.m.-11 p.m.
Saturday: 9 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sunday: 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
There’s also a nice bit about the Nile on Laurel Street.