Style magazine’s Don Baker gives a glowing review of the new Pescados restaurant on China Street in Oregon Hill.

After half a dozen visits — far more than duty required, but which pleasure demanded — I feel confident in saying this is the best new restaurant in town in a long time. The food is exemplary, the presentation innovative, the service knowledgeable and the atmosphere relaxing. Chef and owner Todd Manley, whose Midlothian location has been dishing up award-winning Latin cuisine since 2002, and his new business partner, Bob Windsor, welcome customers like old friends.

The Canadian-born executive chef, Loretta Lane, a graduate of New York’s French Culinary Institute, cooked at Bacchus and Edible Garden before joining Pescados a year ago in Midlothian; that restaurant remains open under another Manley protégé.

The China Street menu is a seafood-oriented mix of Caribbean and Latin flavors. Fish arrive daily from suppliers in North Carolina and Hawaii, and in addition to crab, shrimp, oysters and other staples, daily specials may be blue marlin caught by trolling. Specials cost as much as $30, with most entrees in the $20s.

Standing tall, literally, among the regular fare is a whole fried one-and-a-half-pound Cancun red snapper, erect as a soldier, served with saffron potato cakes and grilled zucchini, seasoned with lemon, rosemary and a mélange of chili peppers, herbs and vinegar. Dig beneath its crispy pink skin and be rewarded with a succulent treat, firm and flavorful.

Many dishes exude an elegant touch. Paella (peas, clams, mussels, shrimp and chorizo) luxuriates in a saffron-tomato infused risotto; a roll of Alaskan halibut sits atop scalloped potatoes; corn tortillas are crammed with mahi-mahi, and lobster tail and claw, grilled to perfection, can be doused with avocado-lemon-grass butter and are accompanied by grilled sweet potato and watermelon salad.

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Locating in Oregon Hill is a homecoming of sorts for Manley, who was attracted to the eclectic neighborhood as a student at Virginia Commonwealth University in the ’90s, where a Spanish professor, Luis Diaz, introduced him to the food, passion and culture of the Caribbean. It took more than a year to renovate the building, once the site of a notorious bar. As a result, while Pescados has an attractive bar, co-owner Windsor emphasizes, “We are not a bar.”

The venture has been successful enough that Manley and Windsor are preparing to seek city approval to add an outdoor kitchen on the adjoining back lot, for roasting whole pigs and creating 6-foot paellas with the potential for outdoor dining. To address demand, they say, Sunday brunch hours are coming this fall.